Coastal itinerary: from Sorrento to Punta Campanella

Seen from the sea, the Sorrento coast reveals a side you would never guess from land: sheer cliffs, hidden coves, the remains of Roman villas and watchtowers. A boat trip to Punta Campanella is one of the most instructive and relaxing experiences of a stay in Sorrento, combining geology, history, legend and nature. Fishermen, boat agencies and tour operators offer all kinds of excursions, under sail, by motorboat or rowing boat, which you can arrange to suit your needs.

As early as the late 19th century the writer Francis Marion Crawford, who lived for many years in Sorrento and died there in 1909, urged travellers to leave the beaten track: in his account of sailing from Sorrento to Amalfi he suggested hiring a boat with a crew of two and going wherever you liked among the rocks, caves, beaches and fishing villages, eating macaroni with freshly caught fish and listening to the old fishermen's tales. Advice that still holds good today.

1. Marina Piccola and the bastions

The trip starts from Marina Piccola, Sorrento's harbour. Looking up you can see the bastions, a genuine fortification from the second half of the 16th century: the three flat bastions follow a somewhat stylised line, and one stands where the Torre dell'Annunziata once rose. At the top is the Villa Comunale with its centuries-old trees.

2. Marina Grande

Heading west you come level with Marina Grande, where fishermen mend their nets or come back from fishing in their paranze. On the left you can make out the slope with the house where some scenes of the film Scandal in Sorrento (Pane, amore e…) with Sophia Loren were shot, followed by the church of Sant'Anna. From the boat you can appreciate the high, jagged coastline into which people, wherever possible, have cut paths down to the sea.

3. Capo di Sorrento and the Bagni della Regina Giovanna

Past the Tonnarella you come in sight of Capo di Sorrento. From the sea you can make out the Bagni della Regina Giovanna, a hidden inlet with a tiny beach, and the remains of a large Roman seaside villa. For a long time it was called the Villa of Pollius Felix, but more recent studies place Pollius's villa near the nearby beach of Puolo, so today it is simply referred to as a Roman villa. The spot is also home to the legend of Queen Joanna.

4. Puolo beach

Further along the coast you reach Puolo beach, overlooked by the ruins of other Roman villas: a sign of how much this stretch of sea was already loved by the aristocracy of ancient Rome.

5. The Vervece rock

Next comes the Vervece rock, opposite the beach of Massa Lubrense. On the seabed at its foot stands a statue of the Madonna, and every September a very moving ceremony takes place here: Mass is celebrated on the rock and afterwards divers lay a wreath at the foot of the statue in memory of those lost at sea. Massa also has a playful legend: the local women are said to have tried to haul the rock ashore by tying it with pig's intestines, but the rope snapped and they all fell backwards onto the sand.

6. Punta Campanella and the bay of Ieranto

From here you enter the Punta Campanella Marine Protected Area, where there are strict rules on where and how motorboats may navigate. Finally Punta Campanella comes into view, the tip of the peninsula facing Capri. In the nearby bay of Ieranto stands the Montalto tower, restored under the supervision of the heritage authorities. Here you can stop for a swim or a dive to admire truly splendid marine life: gorgonians, sponges and groupers.

Practical tips

• Boats leave from Marina Piccola or Marina Grande; local fishermen know the best spots and the stories of the coast.
• Bring swimwear, sun cream and water: many coves can only be reached by sea.
• For those who love the sea even in winter there are fishing tourism and diving trips.